Oceanfront Escapes on the Island of the Gods


Beaches of Bali :Bali, Indonesia

     Beautiful Bali is justly celebrated for its palm-fringed beaches. In the south, the graceful arc of Jimbaran Bay is an antidote to the nightclub-enhanced shopping mall that Kuta Beach is slowly becoming, and the best way to cap off a day spent there is with dinner at one of the simple alfresco seafood restaurants nearby. Choose from large tanks or among the offerings presented on mounds of ice—prawns, lobster, and squid are all popular—and wait for it to be cooked at a surfside table with your toes in the sand. On the bay’s southern edge, Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay is a luxurious resort masquerading as a traditional Balinese village. Breezy, bougainvillea-covered guest villas cascade down its terraced hillside leading to a 4-mile white crescent beach. Arrange for a lulur treatment, and look forward to being exfoliated from head to toe with sandalwood and spices, splashed with yogurt, then taking a soak in a bath infused with flower petals. The drama—and rates—drop a few notches at the small and welcoming Jamahal Private Resort & Spa, where the spirit of Bali still prevails and where the pampering staff is unfailingly gracious.

     On the island’s northwest coast, Lovina Beach is a quieter alternative to the energetic south coast. Dolphin-watching is a highlight, easily arranged through any of a cluster of hotels, including Sunari Villas & Spa Resort, but be prepared to get up early—the creatures are most frequently sighted just after sunrise. The nearby town of Singaraja offers a glimpse into the days of Dutch colonial rule, with tree-lined streets, whitewashed architecture, and a charming old waterfront where nothing much happens—very, very slowly. An easy 2-hour drive west is Pulau Menjangan (Deer Island), renowned for scuba diving, but also a great place for snorkeling, with straight-off-the-beach access to an underwater wall teeming with tropical fish. East of Lovina are some of Bali’s less discovered beaches. The Amed area is a series of compact coves dotted with fishing villages.

     From Amed, it’s possible to travel a beautiful coast road around Bali’s eastern tip back to the south coast. As you drive between the imposing volcanic profile of Mount Seraya and the aquamarine waters of the Bali Sea, you realize you could only be on the Island of the Gods.

Where: Jimbaran Bay is 5 miles/8 km south of Denpasar. Singharaja is 62 miles/100 km north of Denpasar. 

Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay

Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay: Tel 62/361-701-010; in theU.S., 800-332-3442;www.fourseasons.com.
Cost: villas from $680. 

Jamahal Private Resort and Spa

Jamahal Private Resort & Spa: Tel 62/361-704-394; www.jamahal.net. Cost: from $290. 

Sunari Villas

Sunari Villas:Tel 62/362-41775; www.sunari.com. 
Cost:from $90. 
Best time: Apr–Oct is dry season.


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