Nature’s Masterpiece



Grand Canyon :Arizona, U.S.A.


      Few things in this world produce such awe as the Grand Canyon. “It will
seem as novel to you, as unearthly in color and grandeur and quantity of its
architecture as if you found it after death, on some other star,” wrote a mesmerized John Muir, founder of the Sierra Club. The mile-deep chasm carved by the Colorado River is a staggering 277 miles long and up to 18 miles wide. Its striated walls change color by the hour, shifting from crimson to orange to purple. No matter what time of day you visit, you’re in for a treat. Most of the 4 million visitors per year head to the South Rim,about an hour’s drive north of Flagstaff, where the overlooks are the most dramatic and hiking trails wait to be explored. Here you’ll find the main visitor center and a few lodges, anchored by the grand El Tovar, the park’s man-made wonder. Built by Hopi craftsmen in 1905, with edge-of-the-world views, it is considered the crown jewel of national park lodges.

     Guided rides on trail-savvy mules take you down to Plateau Point and back in a day. Or you can hike the Bright Angel Trail, which runs 9 miles to Phantom Ranch, the only accommodations below the rim. Other scenic options are South Kaibab Trail and the easy and mostly paved Rim Trail.

     The more remote (and therefore less visited) but equally inspiring North Rim is a 210-mile drive or a 21-mile hike from the South Rim. Enjoy the views from the flagstone porches of the stone-and-log Grand Canyon Lodge, built in 1937, before striking off on the 14-mile North Kaibab trail to Phantom Ranch.

The area’s newest attraction is the exhilarating 70-foot-long glass-bottomed Grand Canyon Skywalk, which juts 4,000 feet above the canyon floor. Located in Grand Canyon West, on the Hualapai Indian Reservation, it’s a popular stop on most day trips leaving from Las Vegas, 120 miles away.

     Adventurers looking for an insider glimpse of the masterpiece of nature should raft the swift-moving Colorado River—just be sure to book well in advance. Options include motorized or oar-powered boats and rafts, and trips take from a few hours up to 2 weeks through rapids ranging from Class I through V. Shore excursions let you explore side canyons, swimming holes, and waterfalls; nights are spent camping on sandy river beaches beneath a panoply of stars.

      Many canyon visitors use Sedona (see p. 710) or Flagstaff as their base. If you set off from the latter, consider the Inn at 410, a nine-bedroom 1894 Craftsman bungalow–turned-B&B, two blocks from Flagstaff’s renovated historic quarter. Be sure to check out the country dancing at Flagstaff’s Museum Club (the Zoo Club to locals) and the stars at Lowell Observatory.

Where: South Rim is 80 miles north of Flagstaff; North Rim is 270 miles east of Las Vegas. Tel 928-638-7888; www.nps.gov/grca.

El Tovar

El Tovar: Tel 888-297-2757 or 303-297-2757; www.grandcanyonlodges.com. Cost: from $180. 

Mule Rides, Grand Canyon

Mule rides: Tel 888-297-2757 or 303-297-2757; www.grandcanyonlodges.com. Cost: from $137. When: year-round on the South Rim; mid-May–mid-Oct on the North Rim. 

Grand Canyon Lodge

Grand Canyon Lodge: Tel 877-386-4383 or 480-337-1320; www.grandcanyonforever.com. Cost: from $115. When: mid-May–mid-Oct. 

Skywalk

Skywalk: Tel 877-716-9378 or 702-878-9378; www.grandcanyonskywalk.com Cost: $70 (includes admission to Grand Canyon West). 

River Rafting

River rafting: O.A.R.S. Tel 800-346-6277 or 209-736-4677; www.oars.com/grandcanyon. Cost: 4 days from $1,758. When: Apr–Oct. 

The Inn at 410

The Inn at 410: Tel 800-774-2008 or 928-774-0088; www.inn410.com. Cost: from $160. 

Museum Club

Museum Club: Tel 928-526-9434; www.museumclub.com. 

Lowell Observatory

Lowell Observatory: Tel 928-774-3358; www.lowell.edu. Best times: Mar–early May and Sep–Oct to avoid summer heat and crowds.
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